Gelveri, Keten Gömlek, 2016

 

Gelveri, Keten Gömlek, 2016

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Keten Gomlek is an indigenous variety of Turkey, one of some 1400 species that has been cultivated for various purposes for centuries. This region has recieved a boost from a very unlikely source, German national Udo Hirsch and his Turkish partner, Do Özkaya, are trying to rediscover old ways. Hirsch and Özkaya make wine under the name Gelveri Manufactur with almost no modern equipment, preferring to use ancient küp, or amphora, to ferment and age their wine.

The vineyards sit at approximately 1500 meters in a a windswept enclave known as Karkin in Cappadocia at the base of an extinct volcano, Mount Hasan. Most famous for subterranean houses carved out of the tuffa and being the sight for filming in the original Star Wars movie, not much is known here in Australia about this ancient wine producing community that has vine age in places being over 200 years but conservatively being averaged out to between 50-60 years on the most part.

Having a lot in common with Georgian wine farming the grapes are roughly crushed and spontaneously fermented for roughly 4 weeks on solids in a version of open top clay amphora which is then sealed and left to elevage on solids for 6 months. Distinct savoury and rich this is a wine of nuance and power, deeply amber, phenolic, plenty of grip with an intense dryness. All of these qualities coming together to to produce a deeply satisfying, gastronomic wine that shows skill and nuance in the interpretation of this ancient varietal.