Another small house at the vanguard of generational change and reinterpretation of what champagne can be. From Montgueux, in the Aube départment, Emmanuel has taken over from his father to create a set of champagnes that capitalise on the villages anomalies from the surrounding terroirs.

This cuvee is a blend of 2 or 3 parcels (not always the same each year) to show what the vintage expression was like. The wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks for about 8 months, then aged in bottle sur latte for 8 years before it is disgorged.

This is a complex and powerful champagne that needs to be served in a wide glass for all the aromas to fully show themselves. Persimmon and fruit compote on the nose with a tense and saline palate filled with red apples, plush stone fruits and a little grilled pineapple. All these exotic fruits are balanced and layered with a savoury mineral edge and a striking depth that makes this a vast and vinous Champagne of extraordinary complexity.